What a pre-drywall inspection actually is

A pre-drywall inspection happens when the frame, roof, windows, doors, electrical rough-in, plumbing lines, and HVAC ducts are in place, but the walls are still open. This is the best window to check how the home is built beneath the finishes. Once the board is up, many details are hidden. Fixes get slower and more expensive. At this stage, an inspector can walk every room, look inside the walls, trace wires and pipes, and spot problems that a final walk-through cannot reveal.

Why this stage matters for Calgary homes

Our climate swings from deep cold to warm chinooks. That shift puts stress on framing, air barriers, insulation, and roof details. Hail and heavy snow test flashing and ventilation. Heat loss shows up fast if the air barrier is sloppy. A pre-drywall inspection checks these stress points while it is still easy to correct them. The goal is simple: a house that not only looks new, but also holds heat, sheds water, and stays solid when the weather turns.

Framing: straight, supported, and safe

Framing is the skeleton. When it is right, doors swing true, cabinets sit flat, and drywall stays crack-free. When it is off, the home fights you for years. Inspectors look for:

• Load paths: beams and point loads sitting on proper support all the way to the foundation.
• Headers and studs: correct sizes over doors and windows; studs in plane so walls are straight.
• Fasteners and connectors: hangers, straps, and anchor bolts installed as designed, not swapped for nails.
• Fire blocking and draft stopping: blocks in place so fire and smoke cannot race through cavities.

Small framing fixes are simple with open walls. After drywall, even a minor correction means mess and extra cost.

Electrical rough-in: safe and tidy

Good electrical work is neat and clearly labeled. Inspectors review:

• Panel layout and labeling: clean runs, correct breaker sizes, and clear names for each circuit.
• Box depth and support: boxes set flush to future drywall and secured so devices do not wobble.
• Stapling and protection: cables stapled at the right spacing, nail plates where wires pass through studs near the edge.
• GFCI/AFCI locations: protection planned for kitchens, baths, laundry, exterior, and bedrooms as required by modern standards.

This is also the time to confirm outlet and switch placement makes sense for how the room will live.

Plumbing rough-in: no leaks, good slope

Water problems often start small, then show up months after move-in. Inspectors focus on:

• Drain slope and venting: proper fall on drain lines and vents sized and routed to avoid gurgling and slow flow.
• Support and protection: pipe straps and nail plates where lines cross studs close to the edge.
• Tub and shower pans: level and secure, with drains set right and surrounds ready for tile or enclosure.
• Future access: shutoffs where practical, not buried behind finished millwork.

A tiny leak at a loose joint is easy to tighten today. After tile and paint, it is a repair.

HVAC ducts and airflow: comfort by design

Comfort is not just about a new furnace. Airflow and layout matter. Inspectors check:

• Supply and return balance: each level gets enough return air to pull warm or cool air back to the furnace.
• Duct routing: short, smooth runs without sharp bends that choke airflow.
• Sealing: joints taped or sealed so heat does not spill into cavities.
• Bath and kitchen vents: ducts that vent outdoors, not into the attic.

Rooms that never feel right often trace back to this stage. Fix it now while ducts are open and reachable.

Air barrier and insulation setup

In Calgary, heat loss and attic frost are common when air sealing is weak. A pre-drywall visit checks:

• Top and bottom plates: sealant where framing meets floors and ceilings.
• Penetrations: foam or gaskets around wires, pipes, and bath fan ducts.
• Attic hatch framing: space for a tight, insulated hatch later.
• Window and door openings: back dams or sill pans, plus proper flashing tape to move water out, not in.

Even before batts or blown-in insulation go in, the air barrier plan should be clear and continuous.

Roof, flashing, and weather details you can still correct

From the ground and from the attic, inspectors look for clues:

• Flashing at walls, chimneys, and vents: neat work with no daylight where there should be none.
• Vent boots and penetrations: sealed well to stop wind-driven snow and spring melt.
• Soffit and ridge ventilation: clear airflow paths to keep the roof deck dry.

Hail and heavy snow push these parts hard. Clean details now save you from leaks later.

Windows, doors, and water management

Open walls let you see the story behind the trim. Inspectors confirm:

• Sill pans or back dams: water drains out, not into wall cavities.
• Shimming: frames square and supported so sashes and latches work for years.
• Sealant and tapes: correct products in the right order, not a bead of caulk over a gap that wanted backing first.

Poor prep here leads to drafts, noise, and water stains that show up one season later.

Fire safety basics before the board goes on

Some of the most important safety items are invisible after drywall:

• Draft stop and fire block: closed passages between floors and walls.
• Garage separation details: framing ready for the proper fire-rated board and sealed attic access over the garage.
• Stair and guard support: solid backing where rails will mount so they do not loosen in months.

What a strong pre-drywall report looks like

Your report should include photos, room-by-room notes, and simple language. Expect a short list of high-priority fixes and a longer list of tidy-ups. Items are grouped by system (framing, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, air/water). Each note should say what was seen, why it matters, and the next step. Share the list with your builder in an organized way. That keeps the tone calm and the schedule moving.

How to prepare for the visit

You do not need tools, just a little time and a plan:

• Bring a tape measure, phone camera, and notepad.
• Wear shoes with grip. Job sites can be dusty.
• Have your upgrade list handy (extra outlets, data drops, blocking for future shelves or TVs).
• Ask for full access: every room, attic hatch framing, mechanical areas, and exterior.

This is the moment to confirm outlet locations, switch heights, and blocking for heavy items on walls.

Questions to ask your inspector on site

• Are there any load path concerns that need a framer today?
• Do duct sizes and return paths look right for the layout?
• Are there gaps in the air barrier plan we should fix before insulation?
• Do window and door openings show proper flashing and drainage?
• What should I flag now for my one-year warranty list later?

Working with your builder without friction

Builders respond well to clear, grouped notes and photos. Keep emails short. Use bullet points by system and include location tags (e.g., “Bedroom 2, north wall, outlet missing box support”). Ask for dates, not “soon.” If weather limits roof checks, request a spring follow-up. The goal is a clean handoff, not a long debate.

What a pre-drywall inspection cannot do

It is still a visual check. Inspectors do not do destructive testing, code enforcement, or full design rework. Some items, like final insulation thickness or blower door results, come later. The value here is access: you see structure, routes, and seals before they vanish.

Why this stage saves money

Think about cost and hassle. Moving a duct now takes minutes. Moving it after paint means cutting drywall, calling trades back, patching, sanding, and repainting. The same goes for nail plates, draft stops, missing blocking, or a miswired GFCI. A short punch list at the framing stage prevents a long list after move-in.

Tie it to your warranty plan

Keep the pre-drywall report with your final inspection and your 30-day and 1-year lists. If something resurfaces later, you have a record that shows when and where the concern started. That paper trail helps when you talk to the builder under warranty.

The payoff on possession day

Homes that pass a careful pre-drywall review feel different. Doors close softly. Rooms heat evenly. Fans vent outside. Windows lock and seal. You still get that “new home” feeling, just without the common annoyances that show up after the first winter. That is the value of this stage: you lock in quality while it is still easy to build it in.